Quality Of Cut - DeWalt DCS361 Manual De Instrucciones

Dust Extraction (Fig. 3, 9)
WARNING: To reduce the risk of
serious personal injury, turn tool off and
remove the battery pack before making
any adjustments or removing/installing
attachments or accessories. An accidental
start-up can cause injury.
Your saw has a built-in dust port (N) that allows
either the supplied dust bag (AQ) or a shop
vacuum system to be connected.
TO ATTACH THE DUST BAG
1. Fit the dust bag (AQ) to the dust port (N) as
shown in Figure 9.
TO EMPTY THE DUST BAG
1. Remove dust bag (AQ) from the saw and
gently shake or tap the dust bag to empty.
2. Reattach the dust bag back onto the dust
port (N).
You may notice that all the dust will not come free from the bag. This will not affect cutting
performance but will reduce the saw's dust collection efficiency. To restore your saw's dust
collection efficiency, depress the spring inside the dust bag when you are emptying it and tap
it on the side of the trash can or dust receptacle.
CAUTION: Never operate this saw unless the dust bag or D
is in place. Wood dust may create a breathing hazard.
Cutting With Your Saw (Fig. 3)
If the slide feature is not used, ensure the saw head is pushed back as far as possible and
the rail lock knob (T) is tightened. This will prevent the saw from sliding along its rails as the
workpiece is engaged.
NOTE: DO NOT CUT METALS OR MASONRY WITH THIS SAW. Do not use any
abrasive blades.
NOTE: Refer to Guard Actuation and Visibility in the Adjustments section for important
information about the lower guard before cutting.
CROSSCUTS (FIG. 3, 10)
A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any angle. A straight crosscut is made
with the miter arm at the zero degree position. Set and lock the miter arm at zero, hold the
wood firmly on the table and against the fence. With the rail lock knob (T) tightened, turn on
the saw by squeezing the trigger switch (A) shown in Figure 3.
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut
through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
When cutting anything larger than a 2 x 4 (51 x 102), use an out-down-back motion with the
rail lock knob (T) loosened. Pull the saw out, toward you, lower the saw head down toward
the workpiece, and slowly push the saw back to complete the cut. Do not allow the saw blade
to contact the top of the workpiece while pulling out. The saw may run toward you, possibly
causing personal injury or damage to the workpiece.
WARNING: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personal injury, if your hands are required to be within 6" (152 mm) of the blade
during the cut.
NOTE: The rail lock knob (T) shown in Figure 3 must be loose to allow the saw to slide along
its rails.
FIG. 9
AQ
N
WALT dust extractor
E
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often
45º for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 48º left or 48° right. Make the
cut as described above.
When performing a miter cut on workpieces wider than a 2 x 6 that are shorter in length,
always place the longer side against the fence (Fig. 10).
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of
wood, match the angle as close as possible. Cut the
wood a little too long and measure from the pencil
line to the cut edge to determine which direction to
adjust the miter angle and recut. This will take some
practice, but it is a commonly used technique.
BEVEL CUTS (FIG. 3)
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade
leaning at an angle to the wood. In order to set the
bevel, loosen the bevel lock knob (L), and move the
saw to the left as desired. Once the desired bevel
angle has been set, tighten the bevel lock firmly.
Refer to the Features and Controls section for
detailed instructions on the bevel system.
Bevel angles can be set from 3º right to 48º left.

QUALITY OF CUT

The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of
variables. Things like material being cut, blade type,
blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the
quality of the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth
carbide tip) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that the material does not move or creep while cutting; clamp it securely in place.
Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape
on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and
select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to Saw Blades under Optional Accessories.
BODY AND HAND POSITION (FIG. 11A–11D)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the miter saw will make cutting
easier, more accurate and safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer
than 6" (152 mm) from the blade. Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence
when cutting. Keep hands in position until the trigger has been released and the blade has
completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO
THAT YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN
IN FIGURE 11C.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance. As you move the miter arm
left and right, follow it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the guard
louvers when following a pencil line.
11
FIG. 10