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Idiomas disponibles
Idiomas disponibles
BELAYING DEVICE FOR BELAYING LEAD CLIMBERS, FOR BE-
LAYING WITH ROPE DEFLECTION (TOP ROPING), AND FOR
LOWERING AND ROPING DOWN A PERSON WHEN CLIMBING.
The securing device may only be used by people who are famili-
ar with alpine securing techniques and equipment.
These instructions for handling and use should be studied ca-
refully.
NOTES ON USE
Before using the device for the first time, users should famil-
iarise themselves with the functions of the device in safe sur-
roundings. A visual check and functional check should be car-
ried out prior to each use!
Functional check and safety check
Once the rope has been inserted, the device must be closed
and the spring axis must be completely snapped back in place.
When the device is closed, it must not be possible for the hous-
ing flanks to move with respect to one another.
Before belaying, it is important to check that the rope has been
inserted correctly and that the device functions perfectly by
tugging the emerging rope (in the direction of the lead climber)
with a jerk. If the rope has been inserted correctly, the move-
able braking cam prevents the rope leading out to the lead
climber from being pulled out any further.
ATTENTION – even when equipment that conforms to standards
and has been tested is used correctly, lead climbing always en-
tails an increased risk of falling and the risk of injuries!
Rope types to be used
Only dynamic single ropes complying with EN 892 are approved
for lead climbing. The diameter range is 9.0 mm to 11.0 mm.
The use of static ropes is only permitted for securing a person
with rope deflection (top-roping) or for lowering a person, but
not for securing a lead climber! Slack rope formation is to be
avoided.
In the case of small rope diameters and heavily used ropes with
an increased diameter in particular, the brake lever must be
operated with increased sensitivity when lowering a person.
The rope being fed in must always also run through the braking
hand.
Tying into the climbing harness
The device must be hooked into the tie-in loop of the climbing
harness, or be fixed to a suitable and secure attachment point,
using a karabiner with a spring-loaded latch gate.
ATTENTION – the ingress of sand and dirt may impair functio-
ning and result in damage to the device.
ATTENTION – When the lead climber is belayed directly by
being clipped on the roped-up harness, the belaying person
must likewise be belayed by suitable means in order to ensu-
re that he/she is not pulled away when intercepting the lead
climber's fall.
HANDLING THE DEVICE
Opening the device (fig. 5)
Press down the spring bolt fully.
Fig. 6: Then push open the moveable housing flank.
Push open the moveable housing flank fully.
Inserting the rope (fig. 7)
The rope running out to the lead climber runs out at the axis on
the flanks of the housing.
Pay attention to the identifier on the outside of the moveable
housing flank.
Fig. 8: Guide the rope completely around the braking cam situ-
ated in the device. Make sure the rope runs cleanly!
Fig. 9: Push back the moveable flank of the device.
Closing the device (fig. 10)
The device is only correctly closed once the spring bolt has fully
snapped back into place.
Check! If the device is closed correctly, the flanks cannot be
moved against one another.
Check whether the rope has been inserted in accordance with
the identifiers.
ATTENTION – there is no belay function if the rope is in-
serted in cor rectly!
EN
EDDY - BELAYING DEVICE
Fig. 11: Clip on the karabiner at the eyelet provided on the de-
vice. Only use screwgate karabiners. Make sure that the screw-
gate is correctly closed.
Belaying the lead climber (fig. 12)
Hold the device between your thumb and your middle finger and
tilt it slightly to the side. At the same time, grasp the rope which
runs into it with the ring finger and little finger of the same hand.
Letting out the rope (fig. 13)
By pressing the upper part of the brake cam lightly with your
index finger, the rope leading to the leader can, where neces-
sary, be let out very quickly with your free hand. In the process,
the rope continues to run through two fingers of the hand which
is holding the device.
Since in the event of a fall a reflex-like clenching of the fingers
cannot be ruled out, the cam must be released again and the
rope running in clasped as quickly as possible.
Pulling in, shortening the rope (fig. 14)
To do this, simply pull in the rope which was originally fed in
by hand. When the rope is pulled in, the braking cam takes a
neutral position and does not need to be activated.
PULLING
IN,
TENSIONING
AND
THE ROPE (fig. 15)
Pull in the rope tightly enough (tighten the rope) until the rope
tension causes the braking cam to snap into the locking posi-
tion.
In the event of loading, the person is held.
When a drop is arrested, the same procedure takes place au-
tomatically.
If the lead climber releases the tension on the rope, all that is
necessary to unlock the device and let out the rope is to ap-
ply slight pressure to the braking cam to continue letting out
the rope.
Releasing and lowering (fig. 16)
The rope which is fed in should be held with the braking hand
to provide extra security.
The control lever must now be pulled gently in order to release
the tensioned rope and to lower the person hanging on the
rope.
In the process, let the rope which is fed in run through the brak-
ing hand to provide extra security.
Only lower the person to the ground at a controlled speed. The
abseiling speed increases as the degree of unlocking increases
by means of the control lever.
In the case of small rope diameters and heavily used ropes with
an increased diameter in particular, the brake lever must be
operated with increased sensitivity when lowering a person.
Double-stop safety function in the event of
overload (fig. 17)
In the event of overload (braking lever pulled too far), the brak-
ing cam auto matically springs back to the locking position and
arrests the rope. = Double-stop safety function.
The braking lever remains in the pulled-back position.
The braking cam can be unlocked again by gently pushing the
lever forwards, so that the person can continue to be lowered.
ATTENTION – in the case of heavily used ropes with an in-
creased diameter, the lever mechanism reacts with reduced
sensitivity, which means that for safety the rope running in must
always remain clasped.
The double-stop safety function is an additional safety function
for avoiding overload with undesired acceleration.
Active abseiling
Active abseiling occurs in a similar way to lowering, with ad-
ditional guidance of the rope running in by the brake hand and
measured unlocking by means of the control lever.
Securing with rope deflection – Toproping (fig. 18)
For the purpose of securing with rope deflection, the two
strands of rope can also be operated directly for pulling in the
rope.
When top roping make sure that the rope does not become
slack.
REGULAR INSPECTION, REMOVAL FROM SERVICE AND
LIFESPAN
Regular inspection
Before each instance of use, the components listed below
must be inspected to see whether they have any damage
(score marks, deformations, wear) and whether they function
perfectly.
Parts to be examined
• fixed and moveable device flanks
• moveable braking cam (score marks, wear, moveability),
• spring axis
• control lever
Handle equipment with care and clean after use!
Keep moving parts in working order by lubricating them from
time to time with appropriate amounts of acid-free sewing ma-
chine oil or graphite-containing bike oil .
Removal from service
The securing device should always be removed from service
• after a fall + impact from great height
• if there are any extreme score marks and / or deformations
• if there is any evidence of corrosion
• if the moveable mechanical components no longer function
LOCKING
perfectly.
Examples:
- device cannot be closed perfectly
- when the device is closed, the spring bolt does not spring
back to its starting position
- the ability of the braking cam to move is impeded or blocked
In the event of any damage or malfunctions, the device is to
be taken out of use and sent back to the manufacturer for in-
spection.
Lifespan
Depending on the frequency and intensity of use, the following
can be taken as rough guide figures:
• in the case of extremely intense, daily use and very high
working output, with dirty ropes: approx. 1-2 years
• in the case of normal use several times a week with clean
ropes: approx. 12 years
Storage
• Store in a dry place.
• Avoid contact with aggressive substances (e.g. acids or other
chemicals).
INFORMATION ON THE PRODUCT:
Manufacturer: EDELRID
Belaying device according to prEN 15151
Model
CE 0123: the authority supervising production of PPE
(TÜV Product Service GmbH, D-80339 Munich)
i-Symbol: Warning notices and instructions must be read and
observed
Suitable rope diameters from 9 – 1 mm, EN 892
Press and push to open the device flanks
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