Idiomas disponibles
Idiomas disponibles
the side of the tree (C). Make the notch cuts so they
intersect at right angles to the line of fall. This notch
should be cleaned out to leave a straight line. To keep
the weight of the wood off the saw, always make the
lower cut of the notch before the upper cut.
4. Make the back-cut (D) level and horizontal, and at a
minimum of 2 inches (5 cm) above the horizontal cut
of the notch.
NOTE: Never cut through to the notch. Always leave
a band of wood between the notch and back cut
(approximately 2 inches (5 cm) or 1/10 the diameter of
the tree). This is called a "hinge" or "hingewood" (E).
It controls the fall of the tree and prevents slipping or
twisting or shooting-back of the tree off the stump.
On large diameter trees, stop the back cut before it is
deep enough for the tree to either fall or settle back on
the stump. Then insert soft wooden or plastic wedges
(F) into the cut so they do not touch the chain. Drive
wedges in, little by little, to help jack the tree over.
5. As tree starts to fall, stop the chainsaw and put it down
immediately. Retreat along the cleared path, but watch
the action in case something falls your way.
WARNING
Never cut through to the notch when making a back cut.
The hinge controls the fall of the tree, this is the section
of wood between the notch and backcut.
REMOVING BUTTRESS ROOTS
See figure 32.
A buttress root is a large root extending from the trunk of
the tree above the ground. Remove large buttress roots
prior to felling. Make the horizontal cut (A) into the buttress
first, followed by the vertical cut (B). Remove the resulting
loose section (C) from the work area. Follow the correct
tree felling procedure after you have removed the large
buttress roots. Refer to "Operation – Proper Procedure for
Tree Felling" earlier in this manual.
BUCKING
See figure 33.
Bucking is the term used for cutting a fallen tree to the
desired log length.
■ Cut only one log at a time.
■ Support small logs on a sawing stand or another log
while bucking.
■ Keep a clear cutting area. Make sure that no objects
can contact the guide bar nose and chain during
cutting, this can cause kick-back (A).
■ During bucking operations, stand on the uphill side so
English (Original Instructions)
■ Sometimes it is impossible to avoid pinching (with
BUCKING WITH A WEDGE
See figure 34.
If the wood diameter is large enough for you to insert a soft
bucking wedge (B) without touching the chain, you should
use the wedge to hold the cut open to prevent pinching.
BUCKING LOGS UNDER STRESS
See figure 35.
(D) Log supported at one end.
(C) Log supported at both ends.
Make the first bucking cut (E) 1/3 of the way through the
log and finish with a 2/3 cut (F) on the opposite side. As
you cut the log, it will tend to bend. The saw can become
pinched or hung in the log if you make the first cut deeper
than 1/3 of the diameter of the log.
Give special attention to logs under stress (G) to prevent
the bar and chain from pinching.
OVERBUCKING
See figure 19.
Begin from the top side of the log with the bottom of the
saw against the log; exert light pressure downward. Note
that the saw will tend to pull away from you (A).
UNDERBUCKING
Begin from the under side of the log with the top of the
saw against the log; exert light pressure upward. During
underbucking, the saw will tend to push back at you (B).
Be prepared for this reaction and hold the saw firmly to
maintain control.
LIMBING AND PRUNING
See figure 36.
■ Work slowly, keeping both hands on the saw with a
■ Keep the tree between you and the chain while
■ Do not cut from a ladder, this is extremely dangerous.
■ Do not cut above chest height as a saw held higher is
29
that the cut-off section of the log cannot roll over you.
just standard cutting techniques) or difficult to predict
which way a log will settle when cut.
firm grip. Maintain secure footing and balance.
limbing. Cut from the side of the tree opposite the
branch you are cutting.
Leave this operation for professionals.
difficult to control against kick-back.
