DeWalt DW716 Traducido De Las Instrucciones Originales página 35

Right Bevel
• Slide the upper part of the right side fence (7) to the right as far as it will
go. Loosen the bevel clamp handle (14), pull out the override pin (20),
and set the bevel as desired.
• Tighten the bevel clamp handle (14) firmly.
• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
Quality of Cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, e.g. the
material being cut. When smoothest cuts are desired for moulding and other
precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower,
even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
WARNING: Ensure that the material does not creep while
cutting; clamp itsecurely in place. Always let the blade come to
a full stopbefore raising the arm. If small fibres of wood still split
out atthe rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape
on thewood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape
andcarefully remove tape when finished.
Clamping the Workpiece (fig. A6)
• Whenever possible, clamp the wood to the saw.
• For best results use the clamp (27) made for use with your saw.
Clamp the workpiece to the fence whenever possible. You can clamp to
either side of the saw blade; remember to position your clamp against a
solid, flat surface of fence.
WARNING: Always use a material clamp when cutting non-
ferrous metals.
Support for Long Pieces (fig. A4)
• Always support long pieces.
• For best results, use the extension work support (25) to extend the table
width of your saw (available from your dealer as an option). Support
long workpieces using any convenient means such as
saw-horses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes and Other Four-sided Projects
(fig. O1, O2)
Trim moulding and other frames
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a "feel" for
your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one shown
in fig. O1. The joint shown has been made using either bevel adjustment.
- Using bevel adjustment
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a 90° corner.
The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The wood is positioned with the
broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
- Using mitre adjustment
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad surface
against the fence.
The two sketches (fig. O1, O2) are for four side objects only. As the number
of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart below gives
the proper angles for a variety of shapes, assuming that all sides are of
equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart,
divide 180° by the number of sides to determine the mitre or bevel angle.
No. of sides
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Compound Mitre (fig. O1, O2 , P1, P2)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle (fig. O2) and a bevel
angle (fig. O1) at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make frames
or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in fig. P1.
Vernier Scale (fig. Q1–Q3)
Your saw is equipped with a vernier scale for added precision. For settings
that require partial degrees (1/4°, 1/2°, 3/4°), the vernier scale allows you
to accurately set mitre angles to the nearest 1/4° (15 minutes). To use the
vernier scale follow the steps listed below.
As an example, assume that the angle you want to mitre is 24-1/4° right.
Angle mitre or bevel
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°
WARNING: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check
that the bevel clamp knob and the mitre lock knob are securely
tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any
changes in bevel or mitre (fig. P1, P2).
• The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel
and mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts. To use the chart,
select the desired angle "A" (fig. P2) of your project and locate that
angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the
chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across
to find the correct mitre angle.
• Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts.
• Practice fitting the cut pieces together.
• Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles (angle "A")
(fig. P2), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the
horizontal intersecting line to either side to get the mitre angle setting on
the saw (23°). Likewise follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or
bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (40°). Always try cuts
on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.
6 SIDED BOX
8 SIDED BOX
SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW
• Switch off the mitre saw.
• Set the mitre angle to the nearest whole degree desired by aligning
the centre mark in the vernier scale, shown in fig. Q1, with the whole
degree number etched in the mitre scale. Examine fig. Q2 closely; the
setting shown is 24° right mitre.
• To set the additional 1/4°, squeeze the mitre arm lock and carefully
move the arm to the right until the 1/4° vernier mark aligns with the
closest degree mark on the mitre scale. In this example, the closest
degree mark on the mitre scale happens to be 25°. Fig. Q3 shows a
setting of 24-1/4° right mitre.
• When mitring to the right:
– increase the mitre angle by moving the arm to align the appropriate
vernier mark with the closest mark on the mitre scale to the right.
– decrease the mitre angle by moving the arm to align the appropriate
vernier mark with the closest mark on the mitre scale to the left.
E N G L I S H
SQUARE BOX
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