(UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU
CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT
CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 15A.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper bal-
ance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it and
stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through
the guard louvers when following a pencil line.
CLAMPING THE WORKPIECE
Turn Off and Unplug Saw
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and
against the fence by hand, (irregular shape, etc.) or your
hand would be less than 6" from the blade, a clamp or
other fixture should be used.
For best results use the DW7082 clamp made for use with
your saw. It is available through your local retailer or
D
WALT service center at extra cost.
E
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps
may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of mate-
rial. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take
time to make a dry run before making the cut. The left
fence will slide from side to side to aid in clamping.
SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES
Turn Off and Unplug Saw
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES
Support long workpieces using any convenient means
such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends
from dropping. For best results, use the DW7080 exten-
sion work support to extend the table width of your saw.
Also available to help hold long workpieces is the DW730
Miter Saw Workstation, available for purchase at your
dealer.
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES AND
OTHER FOUR SIDED PROJECTS
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we
suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap
wood until you develop a "FEEL" for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one
shown in Figure 16. Sketch A in Figure 16 shows a joint
made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of
the two boards at 45 degrees each to produce a 90 degree
corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero
position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45
degrees. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side
against the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
The cut could also be made by mitering right and left with
the broad surface against the fence.
CUTTING TRIM MOLDING AND OTHER FRAMES
Sketch B in Figure 16 shows a joint made by setting the
miter arm at 45 degrees to miter the two boards to form a
90 degree corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel
adjustment to zero and the miter arm to 45 degrees. Once
again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the
table and the narrow edge against the fence.
FIG. V1
CENTER MARK ON VERNIER SCALE ALIGNS WITH
DESIRED WHOLE ANGLE ON MITER SCALE
(24° RIGHT MITER)
FIG. V2
1/4° VERNIER MARK ALIGNS WITH CLOSEST WHOLE
DEGREE MARK ON MITER SCALE (24 1/4° RIGHT MITER)
FIG. 21
9
The two sketches in Figure 16 are for four sided objects
only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel
angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a vari-
ety of shapes. The chart assumes that all sides are of
equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart,
use the following formula. 180 degrees divided by the
number of sides equals the miter or bevel angle.
- EXAMPLES -
NO. SIDES
ANGLE MITER OR BEVEL
4
5
6
7
25.7°
8
22.5°
9
10
CUTTING COMPOUND MITERS
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a
bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used
to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one
shown in Figure 17.
NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that
the bevel clamp knob and the miter lock knob are securely
tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any
changes in bevel or miter.
The chart shown on page 12 will assist you in selecting the
proper bevel and miter settings for common compound
miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle "A"
(Figure 18) of your project and locate that angle on the
appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the
chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and
straight across to find the correct miter angle.
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial
cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces together until you devel-
op a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it.
Example: To make a 4 sided box with 26° exterior angles
(Angle A, Figure 18), use the upper right arc. Find 26° on
the arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to
either side to get miter angle setting on saw (42°).
Likewise, follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or
bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (18°).
Always try cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify set-
tings on saw.
MITER SCALE
The scale is used when calculating angles. To calculate
the proper miter angle, divide 180 degrees by the number
of sides of the box or frame. Refer to the chart on page 9
for some examples.
VERNIER SCALE (FIG. V1, V2)
Your saw is equipped with a vernier scale for added preci-
sion. The vernier scale allows you to accurately set miter
45°
36°
30°
20°
18°