Idiomas disponibles
Idiomas disponibles
The tilting handle is used to tilt the blade for bevel cutting. Turn
the handle clockwise to tilt toward the left, and counter clockwise
to tilt toward the right.
THE LOCKING KNOB. (PIC. 29)
The locking knob is used to lock the required blade height and tilt
positions. To loosen the locking knob turn it counter clockwise.
Before turning the table saw "ON", be sure that the locking knob
is securely tightened so that the blade will not shift during the
table saw operation.
THE RIVING KNIFE. (SEE SPECIFIC SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CORRECT SETTING)
The riving knife ensures that when a cut is made the two pieces
of timber on either side of the blade do not close up onto the
blade. This prevents possible binding and kickback.
THE RIP FENCE. (PIC. 30)
The rip fence is used to guide the material when making long
cuts, usually cutting along the grain NEVER rip freehand without
the fence in place and securely locked.
THE MITRE GAUGE. (PIC. 31)
The mitre gauge is typically used to guide the work piece when
cross cutting (across the grain) and can be set to cut at various
angles. It can be used in either of the grooves machined in the
table. Always ensure that it is locked securely when in use.
CROSS CUTTING (PIC. 32)
Cross cutting is cutting wood across the grain at 90°or square
with both the edge and the flat side of the wood.
MITRE CROSS CUTTING (PIC. 33)
Mitre crosscutting is cutting the wood at an angle other than
90° with the edge of the wood. Follow the same procedures as
you would for crosscutting. But adjust the mitre gauge to the
desired angle.
BEVEL CROSS CUTTING (PIC. 34)
Bevel cross cutting is the same as cross cutting except that the
wood is also cut at an angle other than at 90° with the flat side
of the wood. Follow the same procedures as you would for cross
cutting. But adjust the blade to the desired angle. Use the mitre
gauge in the groove to the right of the blade to avoid the blade
guard from interfering with the cut.
WARNING!
When cross cutting, mitre cutting, bevel cutting and when
rabbeting across the end of a narrow work piece always use the
mitre gauge. NEVER make these cuts freehand (not using the
mitre gauge or the other devices) because the blade could bind
causing a kickback or causing your hand or fingers to contact
the blade.
ALWAYS lock the mitre gauge when in use. Remove the rip
fence from the table when not in use. Make sure the blade
safety guard is mounted for all through sawing operations (the
blade cuts through the entire thickness of the work piece). The
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com
blade should extend approximately 3.5mm (1/ 8") above the top
of the work piece.
COMPOUND MITRE CUTTING (PIC. 35)
Compound mitre cutting is a combination of mitre cutting and
bevel cross cutting. The cut is made at an angle other than 90°
to both the edge and the flat side of the wood. Adjust the mitre
gauge and the blade to the desired angle and be sure that the
mitre gauge is locked
REPETITIVE CUTTING (PIC. 36)
Repetitive cutting is cutting a number of pieces the same length,
without having to mark each piece. The safe way to perform
repetitive cutting, is to set the rip fence to give the required
length, and to be clear of the front of the blade (Pic. 36). When
the cut is made, the end of the work piece is clear of the rip
fence but at the required length.
NEVER use the rip fence as a length stop because the cut off
piece could bind between the fence and the blade causing a
kickback.
USING THE RIP FENCE (PIC. 37)
Ripping, bevel ripping, and rabbeting are done using the rip
fence.
RIPPING
Ripping is cutting a piece of wood with the grain or lengthwise
(Pic. 37). This is done using the rip fence. Position the rip fence
to the desired width of the rip and lock it in place. Before starting
to rip be sure that the rip fence is parallel to the saw blade, and
that the riving knife is properly aligned with the saw blade. When
ripping long boards or large panels always use a work support.
Hold the piece against the fence and feed it through the blade
with a smooth, steady pressure. When the ripping width is wider
than 150mm (6") use your right hand to feed the work piece until
it is clear of the table. Use your left hand only to guide, not to
feed the work piece.
BEVEL CUTTING. (PIC. 38)
When bevel ripping material 150mm (6") or narrower use the
fence on the right side of the blade only (Pic. 38).
BLADE REPLACEMENT (PIC. 39)
Remove the blade guard and the table insert (Pic. 39.1) After
fully releasing the lock handle, turn the elevating handle in
clockwise direction to raise the blade to its highest position.
Remove the blade fixing nut and the outer flange and remove
the blade (Pic.39.2). Ensure that the motor shaft, blade mounting
arbour, inner and outer flanges and the securing nut are clean
and free from sawdust build up. Fit the new blade (Be sure that
the teeth are facing downwards when viewed from the front
of the machine). Ensure that the flanges are clean and fitted
the correct way round. Secure the blade in place by using the
securing nut (Pic.39.3) Re-fit the table insert and secure in place
with the cross head screws. Re-fit the blade guard ensuring that
it operates correctly. Check the alignment of the riving knife as
detailed in the specific safety instructions. Before switching the
table saw ON, make sure the blade guard is correctly installed
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