ENglISH
3. BlaDE TWISTINg (MISalIgNMENT IN CUT)
a. Pushing harder to cut through a knot, a nail or a hard
grain area can cause the blade to twist.
b. Trying to turn the saw in the cut (trying to get back on
the marked line) can cause blade twist.
c. Overreaching or operating the saw with poor body
control (out of balance), can result in twisting
the blade.
d. Changing hand grip or body position while cutting
can result in blade twist.
e. Backing up the saw to clear blade can lead to twist.
4. MaTERIalS THaT REQUIRE EXTRa aTTENTIoN
a. Wet lumber
b. Green lumber (material freshly cut or not kiln dried)
c. Pressure treated lumber (material treated with
preservatives or anti‑rot chemicals)
5. USE oF DUll oR DIRTY BlaDES
a. Dull blades cause increased loading of the saw. To
compensate, an operator will usually push harder
which further loads the unit and promotes twisting
of the blade in the kerf. Worn blades may also have
insufficient body clearance which increases the
chance of binding and increased loading.
6. lIFTINg THE SaW WHEN MaKINg a BEVEl CUT
a. Bevel cuts require special operator attention to proper
cutting techniques – especially guidance of the
saw. Both blade angle to the shoe and greater blade
surface in the material increase the chance for binding
and misalignment (twist) to occur.
7. RESTaRTINg a CUT WITH THE BlaDE TEETH
JaMMED agaINST THE MaTERIal
a. The saw should be brought up to full operating speed
before starting a cut or restarting a cut after the unit
has been stopped with the blade in the kerf. Failure to
do so can cause stalling and kickback.
Any other conditions which could result in pinching, binding,
twisting, or misalignment of the blade could cause kickback.
Refer to the sections Further Safety Instructions for All
Saws and Blades for procedures and techniques that will
minimize the occurrence of kickback.
Workpiece Support (Fig. M, Q–S)
WARNING: It is important to support the work
properly and to hold the saw firmly to prevent loss of
control which could cause personal injury. Figure M
illustrates proper hand support of the saw. Maintain a
firm grip with both hands on the saw and position your
body and arm to allow you to resist kickback if it occurs.
ALWAYS TURN OFF TOOL AND REMOVE BATTERY
BEFORE MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS!
Figure Q shows proper sawing position. Note that hands are
kept away from cutting area. To avoid kickback, DO support
board or panel NEAR the cut (Fig. R). DON'T support board or
panel away from the cut (Fig. S).
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Place the work with its "good" side – the one on which
appearance is most important – down. The saw cuts upward,
so any splintering will be on the work face that is up when
you cut it.
Cutting (Fig. Q)
WARNING: Never attempt to use this tool by resting
it upside down on a work surface and bringing
the material to the tool. Always securely clamp the
workpiece and bring the tool to the workpiece, securely
holding the tool with two hands as shown in Figure Q.
Place the wider portion of the saw foot plate on that part
of the work piece which is solidly supported, not on the
section that will fall off when the cut is made. As examples,
Figure Q illustrates the RIGHT way to cut off the end of a
board. Always clamp work. Don't try to hold short pieces by
hand! Remember to support cantilevered and overhanging
material. Use caution when sawing material from below.
Be sure saw is up to full speed before blade contacts material
to be cut. Starting saw with blade against material to be
cut or pushed forward into kerf can result in kickback. Push
the saw forward at a speed which allows the blade to cut
without laboring. Hardness and toughness can vary even
in the same piece of material, and knotty or damp sections
can put a heavy load on the saw. When this happens, push
the saw more slowly, but hard enough to keep working
without much decrease in speed. Forcing the saw can cause
rough cuts, inaccuracy, kickback, and over‑heating of the
motor. Should your cut begin to go off the line, don't try to
force it back on. Release the switch and allow blade to come
to a complete stop. Then you can withdraw the saw, sight
anew, and start a new cut slightly inside the wrong one.
In any event, withdraw the saw if you must shift the cut.
Forcing a correction inside the cut can stall the saw and lead
to kickback.
IF SAW STALLS, RELEASE THE TRIGGER AND BACK THE SAW
UNTIL IT IS LOOSE. BE SURE BLADE IS STRAIGHT IN THE CUT
AND CLEAR OF THE CUTTING EDGE BEFORE RESTARTING.
As you finish a cut, release the trigger and allow the blade to
stop before lifting the saw from the work. As you lift the saw,
the spring‑tensioned telescoping guard will automatically
close under the blade. Remember the blade is exposed
until this occurs. Never reach under the work for any reason.
When you have to retract the telescoping guard manually
(as is necessary for starting pocket cuts) always use the
retracting lever.
NoTE: When cutting thin strips, be careful to ensure that
small cutoff pieces don't hang up on inside of lower guard.
Ripping (Fig. T, U)
Ripping is the process of cutting wider boards into narrower
strips – cutting grain lengthwise. Hand guiding is more
difficult for this type of sawing and the use of either
D
WALT DW3278 rip guide or DWS5100 dual port rip guide
e
is recommended.
Pocket Cutting (Fig. V)
WARNING: Never tie the lower blade guard in a raised
position. Never move the saw backwards when pocket
cutting. This may cause the saw to raise up off the work
surface, which could cause injury.