Support For Long Pieces; Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes And Other Four Sided Projects; Cutting Trim Molding And Other Frames; Cutting Compound Miters - DeWalt DW706 Manual De Instrucciones

FIG. 12
FIG. 11
A
B
FIG. 13
FIG. 14
MITER
SCALE
For best results use the DW7082 clamp made for use with
your saw. It is available for purchase at your local retailer or
D WALT service center.
E
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps
may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of materi-
al. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take
time to make a dry run before making the cut. The left or
right fence will slide from side to side to aid in clamping.

SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES

Turn Off and Unplug Saw
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES
For best results, use the DW7080 extension work support to
extend the table width of your saw. Available from your deal-
er at extra cost. Support long workpieces using any conve-
nient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep
the ends from dropping.
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES AND
OTHER FOUR SIDED PROJECTS
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we
suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood
until you develop a "FEEL" for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one
shown in Figure 12. Sketch A in Figure 11 shows a joint
made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of
the two boards at 45 degrees each to produce a 90 degree
corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero
position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45 degrees.
The wood was positioned with the broad flat side against the
table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could
also be made by mitering right and left with the broad sur-
face against the fence.

CUTTING TRIM MOLDING AND OTHER FRAMES

Sketch B in Figure 11 shows a joint made by setting the
miter arm at 45 degrees to miter the two boards to form a 90
degree corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel
adjustment to zero and the miter arm to 45 degrees. Once
ANGLE "A"
again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table
and the narrow edge against the fence.
The two sketches in Figure 11 are for four side objects only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel
angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a vari-
ety of shapes.
(The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length.) For a
shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following for-
mula. 180 degrees divided by the number of sides equals
the miter (if the material is cut vertically) or bevel angle (if the
material is cut laying flat).
NO. SIDES
4
5
6
7
8
9
10

CUTTING COMPOUND MITERS

A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a
bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used to
make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown
in Figure 13.
NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that
the bevel clamp knob and the miter lock knob are securely
tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any
changes in bevel or miter.
The chart shown on page 12 will assist you in selecting the
proper bevel and miter settings for common compound miter
cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle "A" (Figure
13) of your project and locate that angle on the appropriate
arc in the chart. From that point follow the chart straight
down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across to
find the correct miter angle.
- EXAMPLES -
ANGLE MITER OR BEVEL
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°
9
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial
cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces together until you devel-
op a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it.
Example: To make a 4 sided box with 26° exterior angles
(Angle A, Figure 13), use the upper right arc. Find 26° on the
arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either side
to get miter angle setting on saw (42°). Likewise, follow the
vertical intersecting line to the top or bottom to get the bevel
angle setting on the saw (18°). Always try cuts on a few scrap
pieces of wood to verify settings on saw.

VERNIER SCALE

Your saw is equipped with a vernier scale for added preci-
sion. The vernier scale allows you to accurately set miter
angles to the nearest 1/4 degree. To use the vernier scale
follow the steps listed below.
(As an example, let's assume that the angle you want to
miter is 24 1/4 degree right).
1. Turn off miter saw.
2. Set the miter angle to the nearest whole degree desired
by aligning the center mark in the vernier scale, shown
in Figure V1, with the whole degree number etched in
the miter scale. Examine Figure V2 closely; the setting
shown is 24 degrees right miter.
3. To set the additional 1/4 degree, squeeze the miter arm
lock and carefully move the arm to the RIGHT until the
1/4 degree vernier mark aligns with the CLOSEST
degree mark on the miter scale. In our example, the
closest degree mark on the miter scale happens to be
25 degrees. Figure V2 shows a setting of 24-1/4
degrees right miter.
For settings that require partial degrees (1/4, 1/2, 3/4
degrees) align the desired vernier mark with the CLOSEST
degree mark on the miter scale, as described below (The
plastic vernier plate is inscribed with marks for 1/4, 1/2, 3/4
and 1 degrees. Only the 1/2 degree and the 1 degree are
numerically labeled.)
WHEN MITERING TO THE RIGHT
To increase the miter angle when mitering to the right, move
the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the clos-
est mark on the miter scale to the right. To decrease the
miter angle when mitering to the right, move the arm to align
the appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the
miter scale to the left.
WHEN MITERING TO THE LEFT
To increase the miter angle when mitering to the left, move
the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the clos-
est mark on the miter scale to the left. To decrease the miter
angle when mitering to the left, move the arm to align the
appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter
scale to the right.