Vertical mitre cross-cut (fig. S2)
• Loosen the mitre knob (79) and depress the mitre latch (80). Move the
rotating table left or right to the required angle.
• The mitre latch will automatically locate at 15°, 22.5°, 35.3° and 45°
both left and right. If any intermediate angle is required hold the head
firmly and lock by tightening the mitre knob.
• Always ensure that the mitre knob is locked tightly before cutting.
• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
When mitring the end of a piece of wood with a small off-cut,
position the wood to ensure that the off-cut is to the side of
the blade with the greater angle to the fence:
left mitre,
off-cut to the right
right mitre,
off-cut to the left.
Bevel cross-cut (fig. S3)
Bevel angles can be set from 48° left to 2° right and can be cut with the
rotating table set between zero and a maximum of 45° mitre position left
or right.
• Loosen the fence clamping knob (89) and slide the upper part of the
side fence to the left as far as it will go.
• Loosen the bevel clamp knob (17) and set the bevel as desired.
• Tighten the bevel clamp knob firmly.
• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
Compound mitre (fig T1 - T4)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle (fig. T1) and a bevel
angle (fig. T2) at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make
frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in fig. T3.
If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel
clamp knob and the mitre lock knob are securely tightened.
These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in
bevel or mitre.
• The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and
mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts. To use the chart,
select the desired angle "A" (fig. T4) of your project and locate that
angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the
chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across
to find the correct mitre angle.
• Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts.
• Practice fitting the cut pieces together.
• Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles (angle "A")
(fig. T4), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the
horizontal intersecting line to either side to get the mitre angle setting
on the saw (23°). Likewise follow the vertical intersecting line to the top
or bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (40°). Always try
cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.
6 SIDED BOX
8 SIDED BOX
SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW
Cutting base mouldings
The cutting of base moulding is performed at a 45° bevel angle.
• Always make a dry run without power before making any cuts.
• All cuts are made with the back of the moulding laying flat on the saw.
Inside corner
- Left side
• Position the moulding with top of the moulding against the fence.
• Save the left side of the cut.
- Right side
• Position the moulding with the bottom of the moulding against the
fence.
• Save the left side of the cut.
Outside corner
- Left side
• Position the moulding with the bottom of the moulding against the
fence.
• Save the right side of the cut.
- Right side
• Position the moulding with top of the moulding against the fence.
• Save the right side of the cut.
Cutting crown mouldings
The cutting of crown moulding is performed in a compound mitre. In order
to achieve extreme accuracy, your saw has pre-set angle positions at
35.3° mitre and 30° bevel. These settings are for standard crown
mouldings with 45° angles at the top and 45° angles at the bottom.
• Make test cuts using scrap material before doing the final cuts.
• All cuts are made in a left bevel and with the back of the moulding
against the base.
Inside corner
- Left side
• Top of the moulding against the fence.
• Mitre right.
• Save the left side of the cut.
E N G L I S H
SQUARE BOX
43