Use Of Dull Or Dirty Blades - DeWalt DW007 Manual De Instrucciones

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394154-00,00,DW007 bc 5/13/02 8:54 AM Page 11
FIG. 14
B. Green lumber (material freshly cut or not kiln dried)
C. Pressure treated lumber (material treated with preservatives or
anti-rot chemicals)

5. USE OF DULL OR DIRTY BLADES

Dull blades cause increased loading of the saw. To compensate,
an operator will usually push harder which further loads the unit and
promotes twisting of the blade in the kerf. Worn blades may also
have insufficient body clearance which increases the chance of
binding and increased loading.
6. LIFTING THE SAW WHEN MAKING BEVEL CUTS
Bevel cuts require special operator attention to proper cutting
techniques – especially guidance of the saw. Both blade angle to
the shoe and greater blade surface in the material increase the
chance for binding and misalignment (twist) to occur.
7. RESTARTING A CUT WITH THE BLADE TEETH JAMMED
AGAINST THE MATERIAL
The saw should be brought up to full operating speed before
starting a cut or restarting a cut after the unit has been stopped
with the blade in the kerf. Failure to do so can cause stalling and
kickback.
CUTTING
Support the work so that the cut will be on your right. Place the wider
portion of the saw shoe on that part of the work piece which is solidly
supported, not on the section that will fall off when the cut is made. As
examples, Figure 12 illustrates the CORRECT way to cut off the end of
a board, and Figure 13 the WRONG way. Always clamp work. Don't try
to hold short pieces by hand! Remember to support cantilevered and
overhanging material. Use caution when sawing material from below.
Be sure saw is up to full speed before blade contacts material to be cut.
Starting saw with blade against material to be cut or pushed forward
into kerf can result in kickback.
Push the saw forward at a speed which allows the blade to cut without
laboring. Hardness and toughness can vary even in the same piece of
material, and knotty or damp sections can put a heavy load on the saw.
When this happens, push the saw more slowly, but hard enough to
keep it working without much decrease in speed.
Forcing the saw can cause rough cuts, inaccuracy, kickback and over-
heating of the motor.
Should your cut begin to go off the line, don't try to force it back on.
Release the switch and allow blade to come to a complete stop. Then
you can withdraw the saw, sight anew, and start a new cut slightly
inside the wrong one. In any event, withdraw the saw if you must shift
the cut. Forcing a correction inside the cut can stall the saw and lead to
kickback. IF SAW STALLS, RELEASE THE TRIGGER AND BACK THE
SAW UNTIL IT IS LOOSE. BE SURE BLADE IS STRAIGHT IN THE
CUT AND CLEAR OF THE EDGE BEFORE RESTARTING.
As you finish a cut, release the trigger and allow the blade to stop
before lifting the saw from the work. As you lift the saw, the spring-
tensioned telescoping guard will automatically close under the blade.
Remember the blade is exposed until this occurs, never reach under
the work for any reason whatsoever. When you have to retract the
telescoping guard manually (as is necessary for starting pocket cuts)
always use the retracting lever.
NOTE: When cutting thin strips, be careful to ensure that small cutoff
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