Burning Wood - Jocel JA003 Manual De Instrucciones

8. Secondly, the more forward the stove can be sited on the heart, the more heat will be radiated
into the room. To achieve this, the back flue outlet is favoured but remember the 600 mm gap
from combustible materiaIs.
OPERATION
Curing the stove
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Your stove is made of a number of cast iron components and we recommended that the tirst
bum should be a small tire for about 30 minutes. This enables the stresses and strains at the
joints to be taken up and settle gradually. The second bum can be a larger fire for I hour.
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During the curing process, the stove will give off a pungent small and some fumes. This is the
paint curing and is quite normal. Provide ventilation whilst this is happening since the fumes
can be quite strong and may set off smoke alarms in the room.
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The paint will become slightly lighter in colour when the stove is cured, particularly in the
hottest spots. Fire Grate polish can be used to keep the stove in good condition, or stove spray
paint can be used to re-touch the stove. Obtain the correct stove spray from a stove stockist.
Recommended Fuels
The recommended fuels are wood (dry seasoned for a minimum of one year), House Coal,
Anthracite, Smokeless fuels such as "home fire" and various types of preformed briquettes. Ask
your local fuel merchant for more details on these fuels. Under no circumstances bum "petrol
coke" This is a product for boilers and furnaces only. It will burn out the internal grate and baffle
plate in a very short period of lime and may damage the stove beyond repair. Do not use gasoline,
lighter fluid, kerosene or other flammable liquids to start or rekindle the tire for obvious safety
reasons.
Starting and maintaining the tire
Build a tire directly on the grate with crumpled newspaper, kindling wood and "firelighters" Ensure
all air controls (primary and secondary) are fully open to begin with. When the kindling is burning
well, add larger pieces of wood or coal to gradually increase the size of the fire. There are
IMPORT ANT differences in the method of operation for burning coal or wood in your stove.
BURNING COAL
Coal needs a flow of air for combustion through the bottom of the grate. Wood does not require
this and will readily bum on a bed of ash with a flow of air over the top.

BURNING WOOD

If you have only burning wood, you may allow a bed of ash to build up on top of the grate to a leveI
of about 20 mm forming a flat surface on which the wood may bum. You will then use the
"air-wash" vent slide to provide the combustible air and control the burn rate of the fire.
If you are burning coal or a mixture of coal and wood DO NOT allow a bed of ash to build up
above the leveI of the sides of the ash can. Coals need combustible air to flow through it from
underneath. At the same time, when burning coal, this air is needed to keep the grate from
overheating. Failure to allow a sufficient flow of air through the grate will result in the grate
burning out in a very short period of time. You will get some spillage of ash lo the back and sides
of the ashcan itself and you must ensure that this is also cleaned our regularly cleaned out from
behind the internal baffle plate. If you do not do this, you will buckle the baffle plate or in the
extreme, burn it out.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
1. Smoke comes out of the stove when the loading doo r is opened.
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The chimney cavity into which the 125mm flue pipe has been installed may be less than the
minimum 150mm requirement.
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