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Zipper Sewing (Continued)
• Fabric preparation
_i_ Right (top) side of fabric
_2_ Wrong (bottom) side of fabric
_3_Bottom seam
_4_ Zipper bottom stop position
Basting stitch
Place the right (top) sides of the fabric _i_ together. Sew a
bottom seam _3_ 5/8" (2.2 cm) from the right edge to the
estimated zipper bottom stop position _4_. S ew in reverse
a few stitches to lock.
Increase the stitch length to 4, set needle thread tension
to O, and sew basting stitch _5_ the entire length of the
zipper sewing.
• To sew
_i_ 1/8" (0.4cm) fabric margin
_2_ Zipper teeth
_3_ Zipper tape
[lJ Attach zipper foot on right-side of pin.
Fold back the upper layer seam allowance. Fold back
the lower layer seam allowance to leave a 1/8" (0.4 cm)
margin of fabric _i_.
Place zipper teeth next to margin edge and pin margin to
zipper tape.
Align zipper foot with margin edge. Return thread tension
and stitch length to original settings. Sew a seam the
entire length of zipper tape, removing pins as you go.
Before reaching pull-tab, stop the machine with needle in
the fabric and raise the foot, then unzip a few inches to
clear a path for the stitch.
Remove fabric and close zipper.
f
@
(5/8")
(2.2cm)
J
-x
[] Raise and release foot, and re-attach it on left-hand side
of pin.
Take the upper fabric layer and lay it flat over the zipper.
Starting just below zipper bottom stop, sew across fabric
to about 3/8" to 1/2" distance from the basting stitch line.
Turn fabric 90 ° and sew a seam the entire length of
zipper tape. Before reaching pull-tab, stop the machine
with needle in fabric and raise the foot. Use seam ripper
to open a few inches of basting stitch, then unzip a few
inches to clear a path for the stitch. At end of seam, sew
in reverse a few stitches to lock.
Once both sides of zipper are sewn, use seam ripper to
open the basting stitch.
f
[]
J
-x
36
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