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Idiomas disponibles
Idiomas disponibles
POCKET CUTS (FIG 14)
A pocket cut is a cut that must be made inside the area of the workpiece rather than starting from an outside
edge and working inward.
NOTE:
Plunge cutting may not be possible in some hard
materials.
• Choose a correct saw blade for the materials to be cut and
change to it. Set the cutting depth (See "Setting the Cutting
Depth" section). Mark the blade start cutting point and finish
cutting point on the metal plate. See fIG 14.
NOTE:
The indent line marks on the side of metal plate
indicate the blade start cutting point (6d) and finish cutting point
(6c) when the blade is at its maximum cutting depth.
• Secure the workpiece firmly. Plug the tool into a power source. Place the metal base plate onto the work
surface. Make sure that the front V-shape indication mark on the base plate aligns with the cutting line (See
"Line following" section). The blade start cutting mark needs to align with the starting line.
• Depress the lock-off / plunger release button. Switch the tool on and wait a moment for the blade to run up to
full speed. Plunge the blade into the material slowly and gently, but firmly. Then push the tool forward along the
line to be cut. (Never draw the tool backwards.)
• Once the finish cutting mark has reached the finish line, lift the tool from the work surface before switching
off. If a lot of dust has been created, keep switched on for a few seconds extra to allow the dust to clear from
within the tool.
• Pocket cutting tips:
I. If the cut is to be covered, for example by a vent cover, the corners can be overlapped to ensure that the
waste material is completely detached.
II. If the cut out is to be seen, do not overlap the corners. In this circumstance, as the cutting blade is circular,
the waste material will not be fully detached. The corners will therefore, require finishing with a knife or a
chisel. If the material is thin and the back surface unimportant, the waste material can just be pushed out.
III. Where there is access to the back surface of the material to be cut, the cut out can be marked out with an
over cutting allowance. The cut is then made from the back surface to ensure perfect corners on the front
surface.
CUTTING PARTICULARLY TOUGH OR ABRASIVE MATERIALS
Learn to use the tool by cutting wood before attempting to cut anything harder. When cutting harder material,
such as metals, more force is required to hold the workpiece and clamping must be required. Never cut materials
that produce toxic dust or fumes such as PTfe or asbestos.
Cutting Sheet Metal:
• Always set the depth adjustment to at least 1/16" deeper than the material thickness to avoid the blade riding
up over the surface. Scrap material is required underneath the work surface.
• Remove burrs and rust as these impede the feed across the material.
• Thick beeswax (furniture polish) applied to the base plate of the tool makes metal cutting easier.
• Only suitable for cutting brass, copper, lead, aluminum or galvanized mild steel.
• every 2 minutes of metal cutting should be followed by a rest of at least 3 minutes.
Ceramic tile, slate etc:
• Only use the diamond blade specifically designed for this purpose.
• Always use with a suitable vacuum cleaner or dust extractor connected as the dust can be hazardous to the
operator and prevent the guard operating correctly.
Drywall & backerboard:
• The plunge saw is only recommended for making occasional pocket cuts in drywall and always us it with a
suitable vacuum cleaner or dust extractor connected. The dust can prevent the guard operating correctly.
• Conventional tools such as keyhole saws or knives generally give excellent results, though the plunge saw
can be used if a particularly neat, dust free cut is required or if there is a danger of cutting pipes or cables.
FIG 14
6c
FINISH POINT
6d
STArT POINT
13
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