Milwaukee 6310-20 Manual Del Operador página 9

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Troubleshooting
If the blade does not follow a straight line:
Teeth are dull. This is caused by hitting a hard object such as a nail
or stone, dulling teeth on one side. The blade tends to cut to the side
with the sharpest teeth.
Shoe is out of line or bent
Blade is bent
Rip fence or guide is not being used
Cutting Large Panels (Fig. 12)
Large panels and long boards sag or bend if they are not correctly
supported. If you attempt to cut without leveling and properly supporting
the workpiece, the blade will tend to bind, causing KICKBACK.
Support large panels. Be sure to set the depth of the cut so that you only
cut through the workpiece, not through the supports.
Fig. 12
Ripping Wood
Ripping is cutting lengthwise with the grain. Select the proper blade for
your job. Use a rip fence for rips 4" wide or less. To install the rip fence,
slide the bar through the rip fence slot in either side of the shoe. The
width of the cut is the distance from the inside of the blade to the inside
edge of the rip fence. Adjust the rip fence for the desired width, and lock
the setting by tightening the rip fence adjusting knob.
When ripping widths greater than 4", clamp or tack 1" lumber to workpiece
and use the inside edge of the shoe as a guide.
Cross-Cutting Wood (Fig. 13)
Cross-cutting is cutting across the grain. Select the proper blade for
your job. Advance the saw slowly to avoid splintering the wood.
Fig. 13
If the blade binds, smokes or turns blue from friction:
Blade is dull
Blade is on backwards
Blade is bent
Blade is dirty
Workpiece is not properly supported
Incorrect blade is being used
APPLICATIONS
To reduce the risk of electric shock, check work
area for hidden pipes and wires before making
pocket cuts.
Pocket Cutting (Fig. 14)
Pocket cuts are made in the middle of the workpiece when it can not be
cut from an edge. We recommend using a Sawzall
jig saw for this type of cut. However, if you must use a circular saw to
make a pocket cut, USE EXTREME CAUTION. To maintain control of the
saw during pocket cutting, keep both hands on the saw (Fig. 14).
Fig. 14
1.
Beginning at a corner, line up the sight line with your cutting line. Tilt
the saw forward, firmly fixing the front of the shoe on the workpiece.
The blade should be just above cutting line, but not touching it. Raise
the lower guard using the lower guard lever.
2.
To start the saw, push the lock-off button down while pulling the
trigger. Allow the motor to reach full speed before beginning cut.
Using the front of the shoe as a hinge point, gradually lower the
back end of the saw into the workpiece. Release the lower guard
lever and grasp the front handle.
3.
When the shoe rests flat against workpiece, advance the saw to
the far corner. Release the trigger and allow the blade to come to a
complete stop before removing it from workpiece. Repeat the above
steps for each side of the opening. Use a Sawzall
saw, jig saw or small hand saw to finish the corners if they are not
completely cut through.
WARNING!
®
reciprocating saw or
®
reciprocating
page 9
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