angle and the saw arm must be tilted to the
correct bevel angle. Care should always be tak-
en when making compound miter setups due
to the interaction of the two angle settings.
Adjustments of miter and bevel settings are in-
terdependent with one another. Each time you
adjust the miter setting you change the effect
of the bevel setting. Also, each time you adjust
the bevel setting you change the effect of the
miter setting. It may take several settings to
obtain the desired cut. The first angle setting
should be checked after setting the second
angle, since adjusting the second angle affects
the first.
Once the two correct settings for a particular
cut have been obtained, always make a test cut
in scrap material before making a finish cut in
good material.
TO MAKE A COMPOUND CUT
• Pull out the lock pin and lift saw arm to its
full height.
• Loosen the miter lock
levers.
• Rotate the saw table
until the pointer aligns
with the desired angle
on the miter scale.
• Tighten the miter lock
levers securely.
•Loosen the bevel lock
knob and move the
saw arm to the left
to the desired bevel angle.
• Bevel angles can be set from 0˚ to 45˚
• Once the saw arm has been set at the desired
angle, securely tighten the bevel lock knob.
• Recheck miter angle setting. Make a test cut
in scrap material.
• Place the workpiece flat on the miter table
with one edge securely against the fence. If the
board is warped, place the convex side against
the fence. If the concave edge of a board could
collapse on the blade at the end of the cut,
jamming the blade.
• When cutting long pieces of lumber or mold-
ing, support the opposite end of the stock with
a roller stand or with a work surface level with
the saw table.
• Align the cutting line on the workpiece with
the edge of saw blade.
26
• Grasp the stock firmly with one hand and
secure it against the fence or use the optional
work clamp or a C-clamp to secure the work-
piece when possible.
NOTE: When making a 45˚ left miter and a
bevel angle greater than 30˚ , you must use a C-
clamp to secure the workpiece or move clamp
to the right side of the base.
• Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run
of the cutting operation just to make sure that
no problems will occur when the cut is made.
• Grasp the saw handle firmly then squeeze the
switch trigger. Allow several seconds for the
blade to reach maximum speed.
• Slowly lower the blade into and through the
workpiece.
• Release the switch trigger and allow the saw
blade to stop rotating before raising the blade
out of workpiece. Wait until the electric brake
stops blade from turning before removing the
workpiece from miter table.
SUPPORT LONG WORKPIECES
Long workpieces need extra supports. Sup-
ports should be placed along the workpiece
so it does not sag. The support should let the
workpiece lay flat on the base of the saw and
work table during the cutting operation.
Use the optional work clamp or a C-clamp to
secure the workpiece.
CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
This Sliding compound miter saw does an
excellent job of cutting crown molding. In
general, compound miter saws do a better job
of cutting crown molding than any other tool
made.
In order to fit properly, crown molding must
be compound mitered with extreme accuracy.
The two contact surfaces on a piece of crown
molding that fit flat against the ceiling and the
wall of a room are at angles that, when added
together, equal exactly 90°. Most crown mold-
ing has a top rear angle (the section that fits
flat against the ceiling) of 52° and a bottom
rear angle (the section that fits flat against the
wall) of 38°.