•
Motors have permanently lubricated bearings. No
lubrication is possible or necessary. Follow the motor
manufacturer's recommendations for maintenance.
•
To REMOVE pump from service drain all pumpage
from pump and piping.
•
To RETURN pump to service replace all plugs and pip-
ing using Teflon™ tape or equivalent on male threads.
• Refer to "OPERATION" section of manual.
Disassembly
Disassembly
•
Place wrenches on adapter (13) and discharge head (1),
and unscrew discharge head and casing (3).
NOTE: CASING HAS A LEFT HAND THREAD
ON BOTH ENDS AND IS SEALED WITH
O-RINGS (2).
•
Remove klip ring (6) from end of shaft (11). The
stages, each comprising a bowl (9), impeller (8) and
diffuser (7) may now be removed. If pump has been
clogged by foreign matter, but otherwise undamaged,
further dismantling may be unnecessary. If shaft assem-
bly (11), shaft seal (12) or motor are to be replaced,
proceed as follows:
•
Remove plug (18) from rear of motor and hold
motor shaft with screwdriver. Unscrew pump shaft
coupling assembly (11) from motor shaft. Remove
four motor mounting bolts (14), separate the motor
from frame by withdrawing it straight back.
•
Motor may have to be pried with two screwdrivers
if the shaft seal sticks. The shaft seal stationary seat
may be pushed out of adapter from the motor side.
There is a rubber coupling o-ring (19) between mo-
tor shaft and coupling which will usually remain on
the motor shaft as the seal is pulled over it.
Reassembly
Reassembly
Check that the rubber deflector (20) and the coupling
o-ring (19) are on the motor shaft. If they are worn or
damaged, replace. Install stationary seal seat in frame (13)
and mount frame (13) and handle (15) to motor. Install
seal rotating element, making sure faces are clean and that
the last rubber member goes over the coupling o-ring and
onto the motor shaft. Screw the pump shaft and coupling
assembly (11) on until it seats up against the motor shaft.
With a straight edge across the face of the frame check
the location of the outboard end of the coupling. Due to
variations in motor shaft length, etc., it will be from .030"
short to flush. Add .010" shims until they are flush or high-
er, i.e., the last shim interferes with the straight edge. Put
the required stages on checking each stage for additional
shim requirements by putting the straight edge across the
bowl and checking the location of the impeller hub. After
all the stages are on the shaft replace klip ring (6).
4
Check o-ring on both frame and discharge head and
replace if damaged. Install casing (3) and bearing spider
(4). Thread on discharge head (1) (Notice: left hand
threads) and tighten.
With screwdriver in the slotted end of the pump shaft,
turn the unit over (clockwise) before replacing plug (18).
It should turn with no resistance except that of the shaft
seal.
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting
FAILURE TO DISCONNECT AND
WARNING
LOCKOUT ELECTRICAL POWER
BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY
MAINTENANCE CAN CAUSE
SHOCK, BURNS OR DEATH.
Hazardous voltage
can shock, burn or
cause death.
Symptom
MOTOR NOT RUNNING
See Probable Causes 1 thru 5
LITTLE OR NO LIQUID DELIVERED
See Probable Causes 6 thru 12
EXCESSIVE POWER CONSUMPTION
See Probable Causes 3, 12, 13 & 14
EXCESSIVE NOISE & VIBRATION
See Probable Causes 3, 6, 7, 10, 13, 15 & 16
Probable Causes
1. Motor thermal protector tripped
2. Open circuit breaker or blown fuse
3. Impeller binding
4. Motor improperly wired
5. Defective motor
6. Pump is not primed, air or gases in pumpage
7. Discharge, suction plugged or valve closed
8. Incorrect rotation (3 phase only)
9. Low voltage or phase loss
10. Impeller worn or plugged with debris
11. System head too high
12. Incorrect impeller diameter
13. Discharge head too low — excessive flow rate
14. Fluid viscosity and/or specific gravity too high
15. Worn bearing
16. Pump, motor or piping loose